Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse *Tutorial*

I fell in love with this pattern the first time I saw it. I have a soft spot for peter pan collars! And I’m happy to say I also love the finished garment now I’ve sewn one up!

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

It has a beautiful slightly large peter pan collar, slightly capped sleeves, and buttons down the back. There aren’t any darts to get flummoxed over; it’s quite a straightforward pattern. With this tutorial we’ll have you sewing one up for yourself in no time!

simple-sew-peter-pan-blouse-tutorial

I made a size 8, and needed less than 1m of fabric (Liberty cotton lawn, which I recommend due to the lovely drape).

First off, trace and cut your pattern pieces; there are just three! (Yes, I took a gamble and cut down to a size 8; I actually NEVER usually cut patterns but I was too excited!!)

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

With your fabric on the fold, cut your pieces as follows: top front cut one on the fold, top back cut two, collar cut four. (I cut two collar pieces, then removed the collar piece; pinned and cut two more).

Iron interfacing on to the wrong sides of two collar pieces (these will be on the reverse/underside of the collar). Pick an interfacing that is the same or lighter weight than your fabric (I used a lightweight one).

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

With right sides together, sew around the outside edges of each pair of collar pieces with a 1cm seam allowance, leaving the inner curve open. Clip and trim the edges; or cheat and use pinking shears!

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

Turn right side out and give each piece a really good press, rolling the seams slightly to the underside (which is the interfaced side). Set these aside.

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

Sew your top pieces together at the shoulders (two back pieces to the shoulders of the front piece) right sides together, with a 1cm seam allowance. Finish these seams in your desired way (I overcast them) and press either open or towards the back.

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

Lay the top right side up. Mark the centre front of the top. Place the collar pieces right side up (interfaced sides down) on top, matching raw edges. You want the collar to meet in the middle and slightly overlap about 1cm; this is so that when you sew the collar to the top with your 1cm seam allowance the collar will meet exactly in the middle – without crossing over and without having too much or a gap.

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

Pin in place and tack.

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

Sew the back pieces to the front piece at the sides. (With right sides together, so straight down with a 1cm seam allowance. Finish the seams in your desired way.)

Now you’re going to hem the sides of the back pieces. Fold and press over 5mm, then to the notch (20mm). Sew close to the inner folded edge.

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

Hem the bottom of the top (you can do this last but I just did it at this point as the fabric was fraying!) Turn the hem up 5mm then 1cm and sew close to the inner fold.

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

Now, bias binding. Make some or buy some! I made some 1” wide single fold (you could go smaller). In hindsight I should have made it in the same fabric, but I didn’t want to cut diagonally into it and waste it!!

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

Sew bias binding round the neckline, using a 1cm seam allowance, right sides together.

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

When you get to the ends, tuck the ends of the bias binding in to create neat ends – and sew right to the edge.

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

Trim the curves, and cut notches. Or cheat and use pinking shears like me.

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

Flip the bias binding to the wrong side of the top, keeping the other edge of it folded. Sew close to that fold. This hides entire bias binding underneath the top. You could sew it so that it shows around the edge; like I did with the armholes. It’s personal preference.

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

Sew bias binding to the armholes in a similar way. Leave a gap of a few inches and a few inches of bias binding either side, so that you can join it in the middle. It’s really difficult for me to describe how to do this in text – if you need any help with bias binding there are some good videos on YouTube!!

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

Now, I tried to sew this bias binding the same way as I did the neckline but it didn’t work; it would have created too many puckers. So I sewed it so that the bias binding was folded a further time, then I handstitched it in place on the inside. This is where I wanted bias binding of the same fabric as the white doesn’t work very well… oh well, it could be worse!

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

Now on to the buttonholes. Mark these on to the left side of the back piece – starting 5mm from the top, and 1” in. Mark them every 10cm. Sew the buttonholes with your machine.

Use a pen or pin to mark through the centre of each buttonhole; this will be where you sew your buttons.

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

Sew your buttons on. I used some vintage buttons I’ve had stashed for far too long. They’re mismatched but I love them!

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

Give it all a good press… and that’s it!!

Any questions, do ask.

Now here are a few more photos of my blouse. It’s sooo comfy, I really do love it.

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse

Simple Sew Peter Pan Blouse
Beth x

 

Simple Sew English Tea Dress *Cap Sleeves Tutorial*

Recently I joined forces with a few other bloggers to make up a blogging team for Simple Sew patterns. How exciting! I will be sharing some tutorials for their patterns. I hope that you will find them useful!

First up what do you think of the fabric I chose?

Art Gallery fabric (Whitetree)

Beautiful, right? It’s called ‘Wild and Free Luminous Field’ – from Whitetree Fabrics. Click the logo below to be taken to the page on their website to buy!

White-tree-logo Master

Now on to the tutorial. I’m just going to share the cap sleeves part today – I will share photos of the entire finished dress ASAP. Head over to Laura After Midnight’s blog if you want a detailed tutorial of the whole dress – minus the cap sleeves!

There are no instructions for the cap sleeves in the pattern. So this is the way that I did it – I am sure there are more ways to insert them; in fact I came up with a few – but this is my preferred method. Please READ THROUGH all the instructions before starting! If you are stumped by anything, just leave a comment and I will help!

You will be using the sleeve type marked ‘Option C’ on the pattern paper. If tracing, ensure that you mark the notch, and where the gathering marks are.

Simple Sew cap sleeves pattern piece

Then cut the sleeves out of your fabric, transferring the marks as well. I use a pen to make a little dash where the wiggly gather symbol starts and ends; that’s all you need.

Simple Sew Tea Dress

You may notice that the sleeve does not go all the way round the armscye. You will be left with a gap of a few inches, at the front.

So, to fill that gap, we can use some bias binding. I’m quite a fan of bias binding; it’s so versatile and pretty easy to use.

You don’t need an awful lot; I used 75cm. (I also bound the shoulder seams with it.) You can either make your own out of the fabric you’re using (or any other fabric), or buy pre-made. There are plenty of tutorials online explaining how to make your own!

I think it’s best to hem the sleeves with bias binding, because of the way they’re curved. So before sewing the sleeves to the bodice, attach the bias binding to the hems of the sleeves (this is the edge with no notch on):

  1. Open out your bias binding and pin to the WRONG side of the sleeve.

Simple Sew Tea Dress Tutorial

2. Sew together along the crease line.

Simple Sew Tea Dress Tutorial

3. Flip the bias binding over to the RIGHT side, and, still on the RIGHT side, sew in place close to the inner edge of the bias binding.

Simple Sew Tea Dress Tutorial

Simple Sew Tea Dress Tutorial

Once you’ve done this on both sleeves they should look like this (right and wrong sides):

Simple Sew Tea Dress Tutorial

Simple Sew Tea Dress Tutorial

In terms of the construction of the dress so far, you should be up to step 5 or 6 (it doesn’t matter if you have sewn the bodice to the skirt panels or not, which is step 6). You should have:

  1. Sewn in the four darts
  2. Sewn the shoulder seams
  3. Attached the facing

Simple Sew Tea Dress Tutorial

So we are inserting the sleeves BEFORE sewing the side seams.

First you need to gather the small section at the sleeve head, between the marks:

  1. Set your sewing machine to the longest stitch length.
  2. Sew two lines of stitching about 3/8″ and 5/8″ away from the raw edge, between the marks.
  3. Pull the bobbin threads of the stitching, to create lots of little gathers. You can pull them quite tight as you will be creating some sweet little gathers at the top of the sleeve. You’ll spread them out a little later to fit the armsyce accurately.

Simple Sew Tea Dress Tutorial

Now you’re ready to insert the sleeves.

Take one sleeve and lay it RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER on top of the corresponding armscye of the bodice, matching the single notch.

Pin the sleeve to the bodice from the notch to the edge.

 Simple Sew Tea Dress Tutorial

Then pin the opposite side; start at the end, which will lay right up to the side seam. Pin until you get to the gathered section.

Simple Sew Tea Dress Tutorial

Pull the gathers until the sleeve piece fits snugly in place, and pin the remaining gap.

Now you’re ready to sew. Starting from the edge where the sleeve and bodice meet (forget about extra few inches for now), sew with a 3/8″ seam allowance all the way to the end. Take your time to ensure there are no puckers!

Simple Sew Tea Dress Tutorial

Wa-hey; that’s one sleeve inserted. Now repeat with the other!

Now to finish off, we just need to tidy up those few inches. Take your bias binding – you will attach it to the seam allowance in a slightly different way to how you attached it to the hem of the sleeves.

  1. Open out your bias binding and pin to the RIGHT side of the sleeve, with a 5/8″ SEAM ALLOWANCE. (Don’t put the bias binding right up to the edge of the fabric, or you’ll risk the armsyce being too tight!) Sew along the crease line of the bias binding. Note: you can either bind just the gap of a few inches [just stop when you’re past the gap], or bind the seam allowance of the sleeve too. I chose to bind the seam allowance as I like the finish inside.

Simple Sew Tea Dress Tutorial

2. Trim the seam allowance of the bodice/sleeve flush against the bias binding.

3. Flip the bias binding over to the WRONG side, and EITHER slipstitch (by hand) the bias binding down, OR stitch in the ditch (from the RIGHT side!) [I slipstitch!]

Simple Sew Tea Dress Tutorial

Give the sleeve/bodice a good press, and unpick any visible gathering stitches from the sleeve head.

Ta-dah, that’s it! 🙂

Simple Sew English Tea Dress

This is what the inside will look like if you sewed the bias binding all the way round like I did:

Simple Sew English Tea Dress

Neat, huh?

And this is what the bodice looks like on! (Excuse the towel on my head; I haven’t dyed my hair purple!!)

Simple Sew English Tea Dress

I hope that this made sense – please do let me know if something’s confusing, and I will answer any questions you have if you’re making the dress.

Beth x

 

Dotty Ruby Dress

I’m in love with Ruby!

Simple Sew Ruby Dress - Blue Polka Dots! 4

Of course that’s me in the photo; I’m talking about the Ruby dress by Simple Sew.

I started making it early last week and finished it just in time for the weekend, when my lovely mum gave my partner and I the night off and we spent it in 4* luxury in Gloucestershire. I’m sure you understand that I needed a new dress for the occasion!

I fell in love with Ruby as soon as I saw it in the ‘coming up in Issue 5’ feature in Love Sewing magazine. It’s my kind of style dress – the high neckline and fabulous flouncy circle skirt.

Love Sewing mag[Image swiped from lovesewingmag.co.uk]

And, luckily, it hasn’t disappointed me.

Simple Sew Ruby Dress - Blue Polka Dots!

For a start, I looooove the skirt. I’ve never made a circle skirt before, but know this is going to be the first of many because I just love the shape of it. It took hours to hem because I decided that I wanted to make a good job of it; so blind stitched it. I thought that if I machine stitched it, it would have been very visible when the stitches ran through the white dots. Of course hemming was the last thing to do and I was really happy with the dress to that point, so I didn’t want to ruin it!

Simple Sew Ruby Dress - Blue Polka Dots!

Now, back to the beginning. I cut a size 8 based on my measurements. Of course, I didn’t make a toile. Luckily I did think to try it on as I went along, though. I forgot to take photos but I found the bodice to be too big in the front after I had inserted the darts. So I quickly thought on the spot and put it on inside-out; pinning the excess fabric to continue the waist darts up quite a bit further, taking in the excess fabric. I basted the new elongated darts in place, and found the fit to be a lot better. The waist darts almost look like princess seams now; although they don’t go all the way to the neck. It ruined the effect of the polka dots a bit, but I guess I can’t have it all!

Simple Sew Ruby Dress - Blue Polka Dots!

I also cut down the neckline as it was almost choking me! I took my time on this and I’m glad that it paid off; you an see the dots are pretty damn symmetrical!

Simple Sew Ruby Dress - Blue Polka Dots!

I wonder if you can see the one little thing I’m not happy with?

Simple Sew Ruby Dress - Blue Polka Dots!

The dots at the waist seam (in the middle) do not quite match up. I’m annoyed about this because I cut the pieces to have the spots perfectly running down the middle. But when sewn, they moved a tad out of line. I might unpick and try again, but to be perfectly honest, I probably won’t get round to it! I might make a little bow belt to cover it, instead… we’ll see.

The back isn’t too bad, but, again, I did cut the pieces to have the dots joining up over the seam so that they run vertically. But when I tried the dress on before adding the zip it was nearly too tight, so I decided to lessen the seam allowance a little when I inserted the zip. So my careful cutting went to waste.

Simple Sew Ruby Dress - Blue Polka Dots!

Nevertheless I’m happy with how the zip went in, and I quite like the v-back! At least it fits!

Simple Sew Ruby Dress - Blue Polka Dots!

I was going to lengthen the bodice and skirt like I have seen others do, but forgot until I’d made the bodice – so I just lengthened the skirt an inch or so (actually I just cut the size 18 length). And I’m really happy with it; the bodice length is fine! 🙂

Simple Sew Ruby Dress - Blue Polka Dots!

One of my favourite things about the dress is that I made French seams for the side and waist seams (the centre back seam has the zip so it’s just zigzagged). I love this finish; French seams look so neat, with all the raw edges enclosed. I’m so happy I thought ahead to do it; the pattern doesn’t tell you to do it and I’m [usually] a sucker for following instructions!

Simple Sew Ruby Dress - Blue Polka Dots! (French Seams)

This is such a comfortable dress; I will definitely make another when I come across the right fabric. I bought this fabric pretty cheap on eBay but it’s very nice and feels like lawn. I’m glad I have about a metre left to make something else with 🙂

Right, I’d better go and do the school run…

Beth x